Roasted Autumn Squash Ravioli

Today's Lesson

The produce counter has some odd looking, multi-colored Autumn winter squashes arriving. Their tough, coarse outer skin is forbidding but once it's protective covering is penetrated, the rich vegetable core is revealed. Today, we will turn this rough looking vegetable into a refined masterpiece inside your favorite pasta, the ravioli.

Where Did Winter Squash Come From?

The winter or hard squash family originated in the Americas, primarily in southwestern United States and northern Mexico. They have been cultivated for 9000 years and were highly valued for their protein and oil rich seeds. These winter squashes mature into hard-skinned, starchy vegetables that store well into the winter months.

Why They taste So Good

The winter squashes have much more flesh and less water than their softer more delicate cousins such as the zucchini of the summer squash family. The starchy flesh of the winter squashes turns sweet when cooked with rich flavor that stands tall to spices and herbs.

Selecting Your Winter Squashes

Everyone knows the beautiful Butternut with it's long, high-yielding neck and the ridged Acorn with it's fun shape. My favorites, though, are becoming more popular with even richer flavor and often even more meat on those solid skins. Try Red Kuri for great bright flavor and rich meat, Buttercup which sounds like the other famous guy but really looks more like the also fantastic Turbans and the mighty Kabocha which are round and multi-colored. Don't forget the giant Hubbards that come in deep green, light blue and deep orange-red, although they could feed you for a week.

What to Look For

With winter squashed the harder the skin the better, as their firmness shows that it was allowed to mature before harvest. Look for a firm, solid stem end that is dry and not mushy. Inspect the complete squash, avoiding soft spots that may have developed on the ground side. Store in a cool, dry, dark place not in contact with any other squashes.

Preparing Your Squash

The first step is cut the big guys down to size. Carefully, with a large heavy knife or cleaver, cut the squash in half or at lease down to about 1 pound pieces if huge. Remove the seeds and save if you like to toast and enjoy. By preferred method to prepare the squash is to bake it, concentrating the full, rich flavor of the squash. Place in an oven proof dish with the flesh side up. Season the squash and bare in a preheated 375 degree oven until fork tender.

Tricks Of The Trade

Squashes love maple syrup, honey and sugar to round out their already rich flavor. They stand strong to fierce spices such as ginger, hot chilis and peppers while naturally blessed by cinnamon, allspice and nutmeg.

Preparing Your Ravioli Filling

Allow the squash to cool enough to handle then peel. Cut into dice and reserve. In a large, non-stick skillet sauté the shallots and garlic in a little olive oil. Add the squash and season well. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Add the cheese and mix well.

Making The Ravioli

Using a pasta machine, roll a quarter of the pasta to make a very thin 4 by 24 inch sheet. Repeat the process to yield eight sheets. Lay one of the pasta sheets flat on the work surface. Place about 2 tablespoons of the filling 2 inches from the end of the sheet, then every 4 inches thereafter. In a small bowl, mix an egg yolk and a little milk; brush the egg wash on the pasta around the filling. Cover with another sheet of pasta, pressing to seal in the filling and force out the air. With a crinkle ravioli cutter, cut the filled pasta into ravioli. Repeat with the remaining two sheets of pasta. Refrigerate to firm for at least 1 hour.

Cooking The Ravioli

Cook the ravioli in a large skillet in 3 inches of boiling salted water until al dente, about 9 minutes. With a slotted spoon, remove to a colander or drain on paper towels. Transfer to a bowl and add the sauce to coat. Position the ravioli in the center of warm rimmed serving or soup bowls. top with the remaining cheese, a generous dusting of black pepper and fried sage. Server immediately.

Tricks Of The Trade

You can make the pasta yourself for really fresh or cheat a little and buy pre-made pasta sheets. The sheets work well but roll them a little thinnerfor that fresh made texture. You can also use Asian wonton wrappers.